cdmx - the place I never knew was missing from my life
I recently visited the vibrant, culinary treasure that is Mexico City and it exceeded every expectation. The past two years have kept me primarily homebound with starting a new interior design business and caring for over 20 animals (currently at a more manageable 11) on my small Texas farm. With that said, when this girl who is used to traveling several times a year finally had an opportunity to go explore something new, I set my expectations pretty damn high. Also, it is only a 2ish hour flight from Texas!
I’ve been “exploring” Mexico City online for years through the eyes of many friends and my role-model in the design world who visits often for both inspiration and to source via local artisans. I departed with a daunting list of “must-sees” - 90% being restaurants and bars of course- and of course also stumbled upon so many unexpected gems throughout each day.
While it feels like a place you want to keep as a secret all to yourself and preserve for you and your dearest, I feel like not sharing would be simply rude. I’m going to share both places that I visited and places that were recommended that I simply just didn’t have time to patronize this trip. My primary goal on this trip was to explore the design and food of many of the restaurants that have popped up at the helm of young chefs looking to both modernize and bring a global fusion into the traditional Mexican cuisine. Don’t get me wrong, I was just as excited to eat all the street food and pop into establishments frequented by “locals”, but I wanted to see how they are currently meshing the old and the new into their design at these newer spots.
Where to Stay -
Like most major cities, CDMX is broken up into many neighborhoods also known as barrios in Spanish speaking countries. Aside from a quick visit to the city center to visit the Metropolitan Cathedral (more info here), we remained in a few bordering neighborhoods.
ROMA - Roma Norte is where most of the bars and restaurants on my list were located so we stayed in the center of the Roma neighborhood to attempt to avoid some of the potential noise of weekend crowds. Roma is a very “hip” neighborhood with many beautiful tree-lined streets, cafes, bars and shops.
LA CONDESA- Aesthetically my personal favorite. There is a beautiful mix of Art Nouveau and Art Deco architecture preserved along tree-lined streets. Walking the tree-lined Avenida Amsterdam loop is a must! La Condesa also borders the large park that hosts many of the museums, the Chapultepec Castle and the Botanical Gardens.
POLANCO- A mix of Spanish Colonial and modern architecture can be found in Polanco along with high-end shops and renowned restaurants Pujol & Quintonil.
JUAREZ- Home to my favorite restaurant, Taverna, and the new Soho House CDMX, Jaurez appears to be the new “it” neighborhood. I did not get to explore this neighborhood other than a trip to Taverna, but I would recommend checking it out and considering it as a good spot for lodging.
RESTAURANTS/CAFES
PLACES I VISITED- I booked reservations at least a month out for most of these places and would highly recommend doing so. A few spots I discovered last minute and was able to find time-slots at hours like 3pm. Most are on OpenTable
Taverna Primm - I can say enough about this place. The design was perfection. The food was perfection. The vibe was perfection. We went for lunch because their dinner reservations were full during this trip, but I would recommend trying this out in the evening for a very moody ambience.
Blanco Colima- Inside a beautiful old mansion, we were seated on a second floor balcony that overlooked the main room. Like with several other places we visited, this one had a retractable roof that gave a unique open air dining experience. Their avocado carpaccio is something I will probably spend the rest of my life trying to replicate. It sounds simple, but it was exquisite. Most of these places have seasonal menus to allow for in-season, locally sourced ingredients (as it should be).
Rosetta- Owned by an amazing female chef, this simple elegant design with beautiful plants spiraling up to the glass atrium-like ceiling in the main room. The use of plants in every space we visited was incredible. The short-rib over polenta and sweet potato dumplings in a smoky broth were the real stars of the show.
Panaderia Rosetta- Owned by the same female chef, Panaderia Rosetta sits just across the street from Rosetta and is one thing you cannot miss if you are a pastry person. I did not realize you could make reservations for outdoor seating here so we waited in the long, but fast moving line for carry-out. Don’t let the line scare you. They were very friendly and efficient with getting you through it. We got a box full of goodness and a green juice to go and ate at one of the nearby parks. The guava pastry was my favorite.
Lardo- Beautiful, simple design with a copper bar and large brick oven. All of the open windows and surrounding trees almost made you feel like you were eating in an atrium. We had a late lunch here and the wagyu barbacoa was a dream.
Altanera- This was at the top floor of a tall residential building in Roma. The design and views were both spectacular. While it is not a reason to skip this place, the staff here did not speak English and the menu did not offer an English translation so be sure to utilize an app like Google Translate if you do not speak Spanish.
El Tigre Silencioso- I will be honest in that the drinks we consumed while waiting for a table have affected my memory of the food itself, but I loved the atmosphere of this space. Full of “hip, young” locals and we had a great experience with the staff.
Supra - A rooftop bar with incredible views. We went on a very crowded Saturday night and danced until the early hours.
Limantour - This cocktail bar was voted in the top 10 bars in the world. Their cocktails were exquisite.
I learned on this trip that Mexico City has a pretty vibrant Jazz scene which was unexpected and delightful.
PLACES ON MY LIST FOR FUTURE TRIPS-
Pujol, Quintonil, Tetelan, Nido, Sud777, Broka, Botanico, Hanky Panky Speakeasy, Contramar, Condesa DF, Hugo, Loup Bar, Kura, Sartoria, Circulo Mexicano, Cuina, Meroma, Rayo Bar, Handshake, Madre Roof, Balmori Rooftop, Lalo
Keep in mind that while you may be drawn to sticking with “local” cuisine, Mexico City’s culinary scene extends far beyond local with an impressive global variety as well.
DON’T BE AFRAID OF THE STREET FOOD! It’s everywhere and its damn good.
SHOPPING
If you are there on the weekend there are several markets you should not miss. This is my favorite form of shopping when I am travelling because it is where you will find unique art, gifts, homegoods and vintage items. El Bazar Sabado is an artisan market that happens every Saturday in a cute neighborhood a bit outside of the city center. There are also serveral restaurants and brick and mortar shops worth checking out in this area. La Lagunilla Market is every Sunday and is considered a mecca for people who love vintage furniture and homegoods. Another must if you are an antique lover is Plaza del Angel Antique Center.
Polanco neighborhood is where you will find higher-end boutiques and chain stores like Zara.
The Juarez neighborhood is known for trendy boutiques and local designers.
Roma and Condesa both have good mix of local boutiques and vintage.
The Historic Center is where you will find shops with “souvenirs” and there will also be many street vendors in the main square selling local products.
MUSEUMS/GALLERIES/ARCHITECTURE
Casa Estudio Luis Barragan- Take a home tour of the most prominent figure in modern Mexican Architecture. Be sure to book online in advance for tours as they fill up fast.
Museo Tamayo - Contemporary art museum located in Chapultepec park. They only accept cash so be prepared if you plan to visit. I tried to go my last day before departing and did not have cash nor was there an ATM anywhere nearby so I had to skip it on this trip.
Museo Nacional Antropologia- Also located in the Chapultepec park. If you only have time for one museum, this is the one to visit.
Botanical Gardens- Near the museums noted above, one of my favorite moments on the trip. Be sure to go in the greenhouse.
Biblioteca Vasconcelos
Museo del Estanquillo - Mexican art and culture from comic books and cartoons to folk art.
For smaller galleries and art exhibitions check out @cdmxarte on Instagram.
HOTELS
Email me at lesliann.nemeth@fora.travel and I can assist you with booking the perfect hotel for your stay in Mexico City.
